We’ll Always Have Paris

 

Why Do Yankees Love the City of Light?

 

By Peter Kurth

 

April 4, 2004

New York Newsday

 


AMERICANS IN PARIS: A Literary Anthology. Edited by Adam Gopnik. Library of America, 613 pp., $40.


 

'Paris France."

 

These two words, famously lacking a comma, belong to Gertrude Stein, the American writer and salon hostess. Stein lived in France for most of her life. Why? "Because France has scientific methods, machines and electricity," she wrote in 1940, "but does not really believe that these things have anything to do with the real business of living."

 

Touché. Stein was born in Oakland, Calif., the last stop on the transcontinental railway, and knew what she was saying: "America is my country, and Paris is my hometown."

 

One of the surprises and delights of the Library of America's new anthology, "Americans in Paris," edited by Adam Gopnik, is to know how many Americans, not just famous ones, have felt exactly as Stein did. Think of Americans and Paris together and you think of Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, Edith Wharton, Henry James, Isadora Duncan, Charles Lindbergh, Ernest Hemingway, Josephine Baker, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Cole Porter, Henry Miller, Irwin Shaw -- the list goes on, and they're all included here.

 

But who now remembers George Ticknor (1791-1871), writer, lawyer and historian, whom Gopnik identifies as "perhaps the first recognizably 'modern' American in Paris ... there for the conversation"? Who recalls that founding father Thomas Paine -- whose radical politics and pamphlets today might run him afoul of the Patriot Act -- once stood in the French Assembly and pled in vain for the lives of the royal family, understanding, as Gopnik remarks, "that there could be no justification of 'ends' or 'means,' even in a revolution"? And how about James Gallatin, the son of an early American ambassador to France, who discovered in 1814 "How pretty Frenchwomen are!" and confided to a diary that still burns with expectation, "I know I shall get into all sorts of scrapes"?

 

"For two centuries," says Gopnik, who spent five years in France as The New Yorker's correspondent and wrote a bestselling book about it, "Paris to the Moon," "Paris has been attached for Americans to an idea of happiness, of good things eaten and new clothes bought and a sentimental education achieved." More than that, "The Parisian idea is also an idea of happiness divorced, perhaps, from any idea of virtue, or even of freedom. The islands of license and permission that Americans find are surrounded by canals of order."

 

This is an idea at least as old as Emerson, who went to Paris in 1833 and divined that "the limits of the possible enlarged." Twenty years later, after the huge success of "Uncle Tom's Cabin," a book that changed American history, Harriet Beecher Stowe sat in the Faubourg St. Germain and felt that she had "come into dreamland; into the lotos-eater's paradise; into the land where it is always afternoon."

 

"I am released from care," wrote Stowe. "I am unknown, unknowing. ... In the heart of a great city I am as still as if in a convent. ... My time is all my own." It may be, as James Baldwin later affirmed, that you can be "enamored of Paris while remaining totally indifferent or even hostile to the French," but the credit for that goes to them, not us. Unperturbed, in their natural state, the French don't care what we think. "We are happy" among them, Gopnik writes, "because we are free at last from censorious eyes, and we are at last free of censorious eyes because nobody is looking."

 

Historically, not everyone has approved. Writing from Paris in 1784, Abigail Adams complained to a friend, "If you ask me what is the business of life here? I answer, pleasure. Ay, Madam, from the throne to the footstool it is the science of every being in Paris and its environs." Worse, it stank -- "I have smelt it," Adams cried: "It is the very dirtiest place I ever saw." Only in the mid-19th century, under Napoleon III, did a city that had stood since Roman times knock down its medieval walls and turrets, empty its muck-strewn lanes, throw up avenues, boulevards, parks, monuments, concession stands and an Eiffel Tower and become the the "City of Light" -- a transformation Gopnik deftly connects with the flowering of American literature.

 

"The Parisian achievement was to have made, in the 19th century, two ideas of society: the Haussmannian idea of bourgeois order and comfort, and the avant-garde of la vie de bohème. These two societies, at famous and perpetual war in appearance, were in perpetual peace underneath, or, at least, more deeply dependent on each other than might be immediately apparent." Gopnik cites "the twin traumas" of the American Civil War and the Paris Commune of 1870 as the fires that forged "something new" in Franco-American relations.

 

"Paris becomes not a place you visit but a place where you can stay and still be an American writer," he states. "From then on, for almost a century, Paris remains a kind of literary laboratory where American style gets made and proffered in refined form." Indeed, without Paris there might not be an American literary style, because, unquestionably, the writers generally considered our greatest, with the notable exception of Walt Whitman, all worked and lived there, and those who didn't learned from them.

 

As with all literary anthologies, there are omissions in this one. Gopnik has limited "Americans in Paris" to "experiences before the late '60s, if in a couple cases written afterward," and emphasizes "older material, almost all of it long out of print, that would be unfamiliar even to expert readers. ... A whisper of uncertainty rises, because the story, one fears, is incomplete without Diane Johnson or Edmund White." If there's too much Henry James, it can't be helped -- there always is.

 

"On the whole," Gopnik writes, "it seemed more important to make the invisible accessible than to make the available canonical. ... We need someplace to go and pretend to be happy in, damn it," and here, with a flair, he is right.

 

Peter Kurth's latest book is "Isadora: A Sensational Life."

Copyright © 2004, Newsday, Inc.